:root{--ink:#173f47;--deep:#0e2e35;--sun:#f2bd58;--sand:#f7f0e3;--paper:#fffdf8;--sky:#c8e5e8;--muted:#5c7074;--line:rgba(23,63,71,.14);--shadow:0 24px 70px rgba(11,42,49,.16)}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",sans-serif;font-size:16px;line-height:1.7}
a{color:inherit}
img{display:block;max-width:100%}
.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}
.shell{width:min(1120px,calc(100% - 40px));margin-inline:auto}
.site-header{position:relative;z-index:50;background:var(--deep);color:#fff}
.nav{position:relative;min-height:82px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.2)}
.brand{font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:1.35rem;text-decoration:none;letter-spacing:.01em;white-space:nowrap}
.brand span{font-style:italic;color:var(--sun)}
.nav-links{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:flex-end;gap:20px}
.nav-links>a:not(.book){font-size:.92rem;font-weight:700;text-decoration:none}
.nav-links>a:not(.book):hover,.nav-links>a[aria-current="page"]{color:var(--sun)}
.menu-toggle{display:none;width:46px;height:46px;padding:0;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.42);border-radius:50%;background:rgba(255,255,255,.1);color:#fff;cursor:pointer;place-content:center;gap:5px}.menu-toggle span{display:block;width:20px;height:2px;border-radius:2px;background:currentColor;transition:transform .2s,opacity .2s}.menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] span:nth-child(1){transform:translateY(7px) rotate(45deg)}.menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] span:nth-child(2){opacity:0}.menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] span:nth-child(3){transform:translateY(-7px) rotate(-45deg)}.menu-toggle:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--sun);outline-offset:3px}
.language-picker select{appearance:none;background:rgba(255,255,255,.1);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.38);border-radius:999px;color:#fff;font:inherit;font-size:.84rem;font-weight:750;padding:9px 14px;cursor:pointer}
.language-picker option{color:var(--deep);background:#fff}
.book{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;background:var(--sun);color:var(--deep);padding:12px 18px;border-radius:999px;font-weight:800;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap;transition:transform .2s,background .2s}
.book:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);background:#ffd276}
.blog-hero{background:var(--deep);color:#fff;padding:86px 0 104px}
.eyebrow{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.15em;font-size:.76rem;font-weight:800;color:var(--sun);margin:0 0 18px}
.eyebrow::before{content:"";width:34px;height:1px;background:currentColor}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-weight:500;line-height:1.08;margin:0}
.blog-hero h1{max-width:900px;font-size:clamp(3rem,7vw,6.6rem);letter-spacing:-.055em}
.blog-hero .intro{max-width:720px;color:#d6e5e6;font-size:1.12rem;margin:26px 0 0}
.listing{padding:82px 0 110px}
.listing-head{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:34px;margin-bottom:34px}
.listing-head h2{font-size:clamp(2.2rem,4vw,4rem);letter-spacing:-.04em}
.listing-head p{max-width:480px;margin:0;color:var(--muted)}
.post-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:30px}
.post-card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:22px;overflow:hidden;box-shadow:0 18px 55px rgba(11,42,49,.08)}
.post-card-media{position:relative;aspect-ratio:16/9;overflow:hidden;background:var(--sand)}
.post-card-media>a{display:block;width:100%;height:100%}
.post-card img{width:100%;height:100%;aspect-ratio:auto;object-fit:cover}
.post-card-credit{position:absolute;left:10px;bottom:10px;background:rgba(14,46,53,.86);color:#fff;padding:5px 8px;border-radius:999px;font-size:.65rem}
.post-card-body{display:flex;flex-direction:column;flex:1;padding:28px}
.post-meta{display:flex;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap;color:var(--muted);font-size:.8rem;font-weight:750;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}
.post-card h2{font-size:clamp(1.7rem,3vw,2.45rem);margin:14px 0 13px}
.post-card p{margin:0 0 24px;color:var(--muted)}
.read-more{margin-top:auto;font-weight:800;text-underline-offset:5px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}
.read-more:hover{color:#a56500}
.pagination{display:flex;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:9px;margin-top:52px}
.pagination a,.pagination span{min-width:44px;height:44px;display:grid;place-items:center;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:50%;text-decoration:none;font-weight:800}
.pagination [aria-current="page"]{background:var(--deep);color:#fff;border-color:var(--deep)}
.article-hero{background:var(--deep);color:#fff;padding:46px 0 0}
.breadcrumbs{display:flex;gap:9px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:.82rem;color:#b9cecf;margin-bottom:42px}
.breadcrumbs a{text-underline-offset:4px}
.article-head{max-width:940px}
.article-head h1{font-size:clamp(2.8rem,6.5vw,6rem);letter-spacing:-.05em}
.article-deck{max-width:780px;color:#d6e5e6;font-size:1.18rem;margin:25px 0 24px}
.article-byline{display:flex;gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap;color:#b9cecf;font-size:.86rem;font-weight:700;padding-bottom:50px}
.hero-image{margin:0 auto -84px;position:relative;width:min(1120px,calc(100% - 40px))}
.hero-image img{width:100%;height:min(61vw,610px);min-height:330px;object-fit:cover;object-position:center 58%;border-radius:26px;box-shadow:var(--shadow)}
.hero-image figcaption{position:absolute;left:18px;bottom:16px;right:18px;width:max-content;max-width:calc(100% - 36px);background:rgba(14,46,53,.88);color:#fff;padding:8px 12px;border-radius:999px;font-size:.75rem;backdrop-filter:blur(8px)}
.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,760px) 260px;gap:70px;align-items:start;padding:150px 0 100px}
.article-body{font-size:1.08rem}
.article-body>.lead{font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:1.5rem;line-height:1.5;color:var(--deep);margin-top:0}
.article-body h2{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.6vw,3.25rem);letter-spacing:-.035em;margin:58px 0 18px}
.article-body h3{font-size:1.55rem;margin:34px 0 12px}
.article-body p{margin:0 0 22px}
.article-body ul{padding-left:1.2rem;margin:0 0 26px}
.article-body li{margin:8px 0}
.article-body table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;margin:30px 0;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;overflow:hidden}
.article-body th,.article-body td{padding:13px 15px;text-align:left;vertical-align:top;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.article-body th{background:var(--sand);color:var(--deep);font-size:.82rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.06em}
.article-body tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}
.article-body a{color:#7d5200;text-underline-offset:4px}
.article-body iframe,.article-body video{display:block;width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;height:auto;border:0;border-radius:16px;margin:30px 0;background:var(--deep)}
.article-body figure{margin:32px 0}.article-body figure img{width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:16px}.article-body figcaption{color:var(--muted);font-size:.8rem;margin-top:9px}
.toc{margin:34px 0 44px;padding:25px 28px;background:linear-gradient(135deg,var(--sand),#fff8e9);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:18px}
.toc strong{display:block;margin-bottom:10px;font-size:.8rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em}
.toc ol{columns:2;column-gap:34px;margin:0;padding-left:1.3rem}
.toc li{break-inside:avoid;margin:6px 0;font-size:.94rem}
.route-steps{counter-reset:route;list-style:none;padding:0!important;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:10px}
.route-steps li{position:relative;margin:0;padding:17px 18px 17px 54px;background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;font-size:.93rem}
.route-steps li::before{counter-increment:route;content:counter(route);position:absolute;left:16px;top:15px;width:26px;height:26px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%;background:var(--deep);color:#fff;font-size:.74rem;font-weight:850}
.route-map-wrap{margin:38px 0}
.route-map{position:relative;overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:1.5449;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:18px;background:var(--sand);box-shadow:0 16px 40px rgba(11,42,49,.09)}
.article-body .route-map-image{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;margin:0;border-radius:0;filter:saturate(.82) contrast(1.02)}
.route-pin{position:absolute;left:var(--x);top:var(--y);width:28px;height:28px;display:grid;place-items:center;transform:translate(-50%,-50%);border:2px solid #fff;border-radius:50%;background:var(--deep);color:#fff;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:900;box-shadow:0 3px 12px rgba(0,0,0,.32);pointer-events:none}
.route-pin--pair{width:42px;border-radius:999px}
.map-note{margin:10px 2px 0!important;color:var(--muted);font-size:.8rem}
.article-photo--panorama img{max-height:440px;object-fit:cover}
.article-photo--portrait{max-width:520px;margin-inline:auto!important}
.article-photo--portrait img{max-height:680px;object-fit:cover}
.bird-grid,.practical-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:14px;margin:30px 0}
.bird-card,.practical-grid article{padding:22px;background:var(--sand);border:1px solid rgba(23,63,71,.08);border-radius:16px}
.bird-card h3,.practical-grid h3{font-size:1.3rem;margin:0 0 9px}
.bird-card p,.practical-grid p{font-size:.94rem;margin:0;color:#40595e}
.faq{margin:25px 0 42px}
.faq dt{padding-top:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:1.25rem;line-height:1.3}
.faq dd{margin:7px 0 20px;color:#40595e}
.route-facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:10px;margin:34px 0 42px}
.route-fact{background:var(--sand);border-radius:15px;padding:18px 14px}
.route-fact strong{display:block;font-family:Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:1.55rem;line-height:1.1}
.route-fact span{display:block;color:var(--muted);font-size:.75rem;margin-top:7px;font-weight:700}
.note{background:var(--sand);border-left:4px solid var(--sun);padding:24px;border-radius:0 14px 14px 0;margin:34px 0}
.sources{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:52px;padding-top:28px}
.sources h2{font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,sans-serif;font-size:.88rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.12em;font-weight:850;margin:0 0 12px}
.sources ul{font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted)}
.article-aside{position:sticky;top:28px;background:var(--deep);color:#fff;padding:28px;border-radius:20px}
.article-aside h2{font-size:1.65rem;margin-bottom:13px}
.article-aside p{color:#d6e5e6;font-size:.9rem}
.article-aside .book{width:100%;margin-top:8px}
.site-footer{background:var(--deep);color:#b9cecf;padding:38px 0 80px}
.footer-row{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;align-items:center;font-size:.84rem}
.footer-row .brand{color:#fff}
.footer-meta{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-end;gap:11px}
.footer-row p{max-width:620px;text-align:right;margin:0}
.instagram-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;color:#fff;text-decoration:none;font-weight:800;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.3);border-radius:999px;padding:8px 12px;transition:color .2s,border-color .2s,background .2s}
.instagram-link svg{width:18px;height:18px;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.8}
.instagram-link .instagram-dot{fill:currentColor;stroke:none}
.instagram-link:hover{color:var(--sun);border-color:var(--sun);background:rgba(242,189,88,.08)}
@media(max-width:900px){.menu-toggle{display:grid}.nav-links{position:absolute;top:calc(100% + 10px);left:0;right:0;display:flex;align-items:stretch;flex-direction:column;gap:0;padding:10px;background:rgba(14,46,53,.99);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.18);border-radius:18px;box-shadow:0 22px 60px rgba(3,22,26,.3);opacity:0;visibility:hidden;pointer-events:none;transform:translateY(-8px);transition:opacity .2s,visibility .2s,transform .2s}.menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"]+.nav-links{opacity:1;visibility:visible;pointer-events:auto;transform:none}.nav-links>a:not(.book){display:block;padding:12px 14px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.12)}.nav-links .language-picker{padding:12px 10px}.nav-links .language-picker label{display:block}.nav-links .language-picker select{width:100%}.nav-links .book{width:100%;margin-top:4px}.post-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:30px}.article-aside{position:static}.route-facts{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.listing-head{display:block}.listing-head p{margin-top:14px}.footer-row{align-items:flex-start;flex-direction:column}.footer-meta{align-items:flex-start}.footer-row p{text-align:left}}
@media(max-width:600px){.shell{width:min(100% - 28px,1120px)}.nav{min-height:72px}.blog-hero{padding:62px 0 76px}.blog-hero h1{font-size:3.25rem}.listing{padding:62px 0 80px}.post-card-body{padding:22px}.article-hero{padding-top:30px}.breadcrumbs{margin-bottom:30px}.article-head h1{font-size:2.85rem}.article-deck{font-size:1.05rem}.hero-image{width:calc(100% - 28px);margin-bottom:-56px}.hero-image img{height:390px;border-radius:18px}.hero-image figcaption{border-radius:12px;width:auto}.article-layout{padding-top:108px;padding-bottom:74px}.article-body{font-size:1rem}.article-body>.lead{font-size:1.28rem}.article-body table{display:block;overflow-x:auto;white-space:nowrap;border-radius:12px}.route-facts,.route-steps,.bird-grid,.practical-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.toc ol{columns:1}.footer-row{padding-bottom:24px}}